XR4Ti Archived Tech Articles
Post Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 Subject: Sticking Trunk Lock Fix - XR4Ti List: firstname.lastname@example.org I was fooling around with the rear wiper motor in my "racer" XR recently and decided to find out why my hatch lock has been hanging up and slow to return. When I took it out and disassembled it, I was amazed with how easy it was to fiddle with and clean up. I know a bunch of you have a lock that requires a key to pull it back out just so you can latch the hatch. How do I know this? Both of my XR's displayed this tendency before last weekend. I'll be doing the second XR soon. First, take off that trim panel that covers the underside of the hatch off. That's as simple as popping off the pine-tree trim retainers. Just make sure you collect them all, as they have a tendency to fly a good distance when you pop them free. Second, unbolt the lock solenoid from it's mount. You should be able to move the solenoid around enough to get your arm in the hole where the solenoid is. Then stick your arm in the hole and pull the retaining clip off the lock. Easier said than done. The clip is shaped like a "U" and fits around the lock cylinder to prevent it from pulling out of the hatch. It'll have a tab on it that you can get a finger around. It'll be on there reasonably tight. I know I've got some scrapes on my forearm from when the clip came loose. Now that you have the lock loose, lower the hatch. At this point you'll pull the lock cylinder out as far as you can. The pullrod from the lock solenoid will still be attached. Work the pullrod out through the hole until you can maneuver the lock cylinder in such a way as to slide off the end of the solenoid pullrod. You'll understand once you see it. You now may have your way with the lock cylinder. There is a snap ring in place on the backside of the lock cylinder, opposite where you put the key in. You'll actually have to pry this out, as there are no holes for standard snap ring pliers. Take it easy, because this holds the whole thing together. Mine came out with a scratch awl and a small flatblade screwdriver. The assembly (locking plate, snap ring, and spring) will pop out with enough force to get lost, so be careful. You'll see the original lubrication, now likely in the form of a yellow waxy subtance and rust, on the locking plate (the part with the little ear that connects to the solenoid pullrod) and the spring, as well as the actual lock mechanism. I thoroughly cleaned out the bore of the lock cylinder using some scraping tools to get the congealed funk out. I also removed the little o-ring on the outside end of the lock cylinder bore and cleaned it as well. Make sure to reinstall it with the split in the o-ring facing toward the inside end of the lock cylinder. The lock mechanism has plenty of grooves and notches in it that have collected funk over the years. Make sure it's clean. I also cleaned the spring, the locking plate, and the snap ring thoroughly. I lubricated the assembly very little. In fact, you might want to ignore my advice on lube and do a little research yourself. I used synthetic wheel bearing grease in the groove lands inside the lock cylinder bore. This seemed to make everything work very nicely. Assembly is straightforward, with the exception of installing the snap ring. Just take your time and watch it carefully when it flies across your garage. Just reinstall it the same way you took it out.Back to the Tech Articles main page
Published by Chris Anglin.