XR4Ti Archived Tech Articles
Post Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 Subject: Re: Transmission oil List: firstname.lastname@example.org I took this note of transmission fuild drain and fill procedure after I did mine recently. My car is an '88 and has transmission air baffle but other than that most of it applies. A recent thread discussed the fluid capacity so you may want to follow on that. In my write up I think I used what I read from the Shop Manual. Keywords for searching the IMON Archives: transmission (tranny) fluid / gear oil, drain, fill, technique / procedure I spent some time to replace the T-9 transmission fluid and played with some means to get it out and in. Hope information is worth your time if you want to do it your self. I couldn't get REDLINE MTL 75W/90 (GL-4) semi-synthetic in time to do it so settled with Durablend 80W-90 sythetic blend. Tools: - 13mm socket - 10" extension - 10mm allen wrench, - Mityvac + brake fluid bleeder - 5 ft. 3/8" ID clear vinyltubing Draining: Driving the car so transmission gets up to working temperature is one way to thin up the fluid allowing easier draining of fuild. However I didn't do this. I put front wheels on ramps. My car, an '88, has the tranny air baffle (older ones don't). There are two 13-mm bolts attaching baffle to case. I used 10" extension bar to access them (contrary to the Shop Manual there was no need to touch any other body parts.) Baffle then slides out rearward. There are two rubber mounting bushing in the forward mounting flange interfacing the baffle and the mounting stud. Grab these when sliding the baffle out. The filler plug is on the driver side. A fairly large metric allen wrench (hex key) at 10mm. I used a piece of black pipe to increase the leaverage. I threaded a piece of coat hanger wire with tip 1" slightly bent, into 2-ft of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing (available at Home Depot.) Using a reducer this got connected to 1/8 tubing then to Mityvac. The wire is about 1/4" shorter then tubing, to aid sending tubing down bottom of case. I used Mityvac with brake bleeder attachment to start fluid flowing, then detached the tubing from bleeder reservoir, and pulled out the wire, to let siphon work the fluid out into a catch pan. This took just a few minutes. At end I use Mityvac again to get whatver little remain out, using 1/8 tubing. Refilling: I cut the fuild bottle nozzle to ~3/8" openning, pushed one end of about 5-ft of clean 3/8" vinyl tubing onto the nozzle very tightly, then threaded the other end down from the space in front of the driverside firewall. I had a helper holding the bottle, and I got under the car, pull tubing almost straight, then cut excess length so there was about 3" into the case and the tubing routing is fairly straight. I had the helper invert the bottle and wedged it securely. I tie corded tubing to nearby parts to keep it from flexing. We then slit the bottom of quart bottle to equalize the atmospheric pressure, and start using gravity to fill. This took less then 5 minutes. We then cut off the bottom of the first bottle to make a funnel. I placed a drain pan under the tranny case to catch overflow, and poured the second bottle in the funnel. When done, I jacked up the front to remove ramps, and lowered the car into horizontal position to let excess oil out. Then I jacked it up (and supported it) again to put the plug and the baffle back in place. There was just a little (a few oz) overflow. I figure if I worked with warm fluid things will go a bit faster.Back to the Tech Articles main page
Published by Chris Anglin.